Garden compost, formed from rotted down vegetable waste, is an excellent substitute as it returns to the soil all the materials taken out during plant growth and helps to improve the soil structure. It is a simple and economical matter to make a compost heap in the garden but careful thought should he given to the siting of it. Though it is preferable to place it out of full view, it should not be anywhere too damp or shady or the waste matter will not rot down correctly.
Many waste materials can go on to the compost heap, from kitchen waste such as lettuce leaves and vegetable peelings to grass cuttings, dead leaves and straw- but diseased plant roots, perennial weeds or woody stems should always be burnt. The successful decomposition of this waste material depends on air, water and the action of bacteria. The bacteria depend on nitrogen for food and the rate of decay can be accelerated by sprinkling the heap with a nitrogenous fertilizer such as sulphate of ammonia or by spreading a layer of farmyard manure over it.
Each 300 mm (1 ft) layer of waste should be trodden or pressed down firmly to get rid of air pockets, and then watered. The compacted mass can be covered with a layer of soil, about 25 mm (1 in) thick, and then the farmyard manure or sulphate of ammonia if you arc using it. Alternate layers can be covered with hydrated lime (unless your soil is naturally limy) instead. When the heap is the height you require, cover it with one more layer of soil and give it a watering. Decomposition will be speeded up if the heap is turned about every six weeks, moving waste matter from the outside into the centre and watering any dry patches. In the absence of rain, water should be sprinkled on the heap periodically-about every two weeks during a dry summer. Too much rain, however, will wash away the nutrients in the compost; during a period of heavy rainfall, a temporary cover could be placed on top.
Any measures taken to improve texture and fertility of the soil will help overcome drainage problems. Digging aerate a clay soil, and mixing in bulk, organic matter (such as peat, compost strawy manure or dead bracken) we below the surface will improve its texture The addition of inorganic materials such gritty sand, weathered ashes or gypsu: (calcium sulphate) will also make a clay soil more open in texture. As a rough guid allow a bucketful of organic matter and tw of inorganic for each square metre or square yard of ground.
While the application of artificial fertilizers helps to stimulate plant growth it does nothing to improve the physical qualities of the soil. In fact over-application of these materials can cause soil deterioration by destroying bacteria. Soil texture can be improved by the addition of sterilized peat (moist, decomposing plant matter) but this has no mineral or food content at all. The fertility of a soil is an extremely complex balance between its physiology, its humus content and its mineral content (shown by its pH value). Once a gardener understands how each factor in the balance works, he has control over his plot, over what will grow and where. A well drained soil is essential not for successful plant growth but also paths and walls are to he built. It is therefore important to consider the draink your whole plot, not simply with regal the growing areas.
Few plants like a lot of water ar their roots and in a soil which is consta wet the plant roots will remain near surface or will start to rot. Wet soils also cold, which retards plant gro When drainage is inadequate, not on air blocked from the plant roots but general lack of air in the soil means bacteria cannot live and the bacteria ai vital part of healthy soil.
Many waste materials can go on to the compost heap, from kitchen waste such as lettuce leaves and vegetable peelings to grass cuttings, dead leaves and straw- but diseased plant roots, perennial weeds or woody stems should always be burnt. The successful decomposition of this waste material depends on air, water and the action of bacteria. The bacteria depend on nitrogen for food and the rate of decay can be accelerated by sprinkling the heap with a nitrogenous fertilizer such as sulphate of ammonia or by spreading a layer of farmyard manure over it.
Each 300 mm (1 ft) layer of waste should be trodden or pressed down firmly to get rid of air pockets, and then watered. The compacted mass can be covered with a layer of soil, about 25 mm (1 in) thick, and then the farmyard manure or sulphate of ammonia if you arc using it. Alternate layers can be covered with hydrated lime (unless your soil is naturally limy) instead. When the heap is the height you require, cover it with one more layer of soil and give it a watering. Decomposition will be speeded up if the heap is turned about every six weeks, moving waste matter from the outside into the centre and watering any dry patches. In the absence of rain, water should be sprinkled on the heap periodically-about every two weeks during a dry summer. Too much rain, however, will wash away the nutrients in the compost; during a period of heavy rainfall, a temporary cover could be placed on top.
Any measures taken to improve texture and fertility of the soil will help overcome drainage problems. Digging aerate a clay soil, and mixing in bulk, organic matter (such as peat, compost strawy manure or dead bracken) we below the surface will improve its texture The addition of inorganic materials such gritty sand, weathered ashes or gypsu: (calcium sulphate) will also make a clay soil more open in texture. As a rough guid allow a bucketful of organic matter and tw of inorganic for each square metre or square yard of ground.
While the application of artificial fertilizers helps to stimulate plant growth it does nothing to improve the physical qualities of the soil. In fact over-application of these materials can cause soil deterioration by destroying bacteria. Soil texture can be improved by the addition of sterilized peat (moist, decomposing plant matter) but this has no mineral or food content at all. The fertility of a soil is an extremely complex balance between its physiology, its humus content and its mineral content (shown by its pH value). Once a gardener understands how each factor in the balance works, he has control over his plot, over what will grow and where. A well drained soil is essential not for successful plant growth but also paths and walls are to he built. It is therefore important to consider the draink your whole plot, not simply with regal the growing areas.
Few plants like a lot of water ar their roots and in a soil which is consta wet the plant roots will remain near surface or will start to rot. Wet soils also cold, which retards plant gro When drainage is inadequate, not on air blocked from the plant roots but general lack of air in the soil means bacteria cannot live and the bacteria ai vital part of healthy soil.
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Good garden drainage system is important in garden planning to have a thriving garden.
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