The demands of a single family can vary enormously over a number of years. Where they are likely to be in the same home for sonic time it is important that the garden plan is flexible enough to reflect these changing needs. A young couple might use the garden mainly for sunbathing or entertaining and would want a simple layout which is easy to look after.
The arrival of children would impose many new demands, from pram-standing space to soft play areas and tricycle runs. With a growing family a bigger area of the garden might be devoted to vegetables, with a large terrace space for outdoor activities and family meals.
The level of acidity or alkalinity can be controlled by adding lime, peat and various chemicals such as sulphate of ammonia to the soil. Lime helps reduce the acid level of a peaty or sandy soil while peat and sulphur make a chalky soil less alkaline. One of the best ways to improve your soil is to dig it, using a good spade or a fork for heavy clay soils. Digging will aerate the soil, kill the weeds and break up some of the subsoil so that the layer of topsoil is gradually increased. It should be done once a year, and autumn or early winter is the best time. This is particularly important with heavy clay soils, so that winter frosts will break up the compacted lumps and prepare the ground for planting in spring.
The depth of topsoil varies. A site recently left by a builder may have no topsoil at all (or it may be covered by the subsoil layer), while in parts of the Mississippi Basin the rich alluvial deposits are 6 m (about 20 ft) deep. The average garden has between 300 mm and 600 mm (1 ft and 2 ft) of topsoil, but a depth of as little as 150 mm (6 in) is sufficient for growing a large number of plants. You can test the depth of topsoil by the use of a soil auger, a tool like a giant corkscrew, which will bring up a sample of the soil profile, the several layers from which it is formed. A simpler test is to dig a hole with steep sides and so make the soil profile visible in that way. The hole will also show you how quickly the top- or subsoil drains after rain.
For the revitalization of an old garden, many writers suggest removal of the soured topsoil and its replacement with new, but this is both difficult to obtain and expensive. (On the basis of the calculation that it takes 25 mm-1 in-of topsoil a thousand years to develop, it is, of course, cheap.) When buying topsoil, it is important to establish its Source and to be sure that it is `vegetable' topsoil, with organic content, and free of disease and weeds. Beware especially of the roots of weeds such as couch grass. A period of deep cultivation and the addition of plenty of organic material will increase the amount of topsoil already in a garden by encouraging bacteria to work within the top layers of subsoil.
Between topsoil and parent bed rock there may be many layers of stone and gravel, but the layer immediately beneath the topsoil is generally the subsoil. Its depth varies according to the hardness of the underlying rock and the amount of erosion it has suffered. The colour and texture of subsoil are usually different from those of the topsoil because it is in a transitional stage, without humus or organic material. For this reason, it is not a growing medium.
The arrival of children would impose many new demands, from pram-standing space to soft play areas and tricycle runs. With a growing family a bigger area of the garden might be devoted to vegetables, with a large terrace space for outdoor activities and family meals.
The level of acidity or alkalinity can be controlled by adding lime, peat and various chemicals such as sulphate of ammonia to the soil. Lime helps reduce the acid level of a peaty or sandy soil while peat and sulphur make a chalky soil less alkaline. One of the best ways to improve your soil is to dig it, using a good spade or a fork for heavy clay soils. Digging will aerate the soil, kill the weeds and break up some of the subsoil so that the layer of topsoil is gradually increased. It should be done once a year, and autumn or early winter is the best time. This is particularly important with heavy clay soils, so that winter frosts will break up the compacted lumps and prepare the ground for planting in spring.
The depth of topsoil varies. A site recently left by a builder may have no topsoil at all (or it may be covered by the subsoil layer), while in parts of the Mississippi Basin the rich alluvial deposits are 6 m (about 20 ft) deep. The average garden has between 300 mm and 600 mm (1 ft and 2 ft) of topsoil, but a depth of as little as 150 mm (6 in) is sufficient for growing a large number of plants. You can test the depth of topsoil by the use of a soil auger, a tool like a giant corkscrew, which will bring up a sample of the soil profile, the several layers from which it is formed. A simpler test is to dig a hole with steep sides and so make the soil profile visible in that way. The hole will also show you how quickly the top- or subsoil drains after rain.
For the revitalization of an old garden, many writers suggest removal of the soured topsoil and its replacement with new, but this is both difficult to obtain and expensive. (On the basis of the calculation that it takes 25 mm-1 in-of topsoil a thousand years to develop, it is, of course, cheap.) When buying topsoil, it is important to establish its Source and to be sure that it is `vegetable' topsoil, with organic content, and free of disease and weeds. Beware especially of the roots of weeds such as couch grass. A period of deep cultivation and the addition of plenty of organic material will increase the amount of topsoil already in a garden by encouraging bacteria to work within the top layers of subsoil.
Between topsoil and parent bed rock there may be many layers of stone and gravel, but the layer immediately beneath the topsoil is generally the subsoil. Its depth varies according to the hardness of the underlying rock and the amount of erosion it has suffered. The colour and texture of subsoil are usually different from those of the topsoil because it is in a transitional stage, without humus or organic material. For this reason, it is not a growing medium.
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